Kahurangi (Mt Owen and Boulder Lake)

Puh, we are a bit behind with keeping the Blog up to date. Because of the good weather we rather stay at campgrounds than at Backpackers.

Anyway. Our last two trips on the South Island led us to Kahurangi National Park. First, we explored the incredible terrain around Mount Owen. The landscape is dominated by bizarre Limestone (German: Kalkstein) and Marble (Marmor) formations. See for yourself.

Von Mt Owen

On the other trip we went to the picturesque Boulder Lake in the north of the park. We stayed an extra night at the lake and did a day trip to Lake Clara and the surrounding rocks.

Argh, seems the internet is too lame here and I have to abandon the computer now. So no pictures of Boulder Lake at the moment.

Travers-D'Urville-Circuit

Over the Christmas days we did a huge tramp in Nelson Lakes National Park, combining the valleys of the Travers and the D'Urville River and returning over Robert Ridge.

On the first day we started in the afternoon and went along an easy track beside the lake to Lakehead Hut. Although it was a hot day, it was a bit too cloudy and cold in the evening to go for a swim.

The next day started with heavy mist in the morning and an ice cold river crossing. Luckily the sun broke through soon enough so we were warm again. The Travers valley is relatively open so the track was really beautiful. We splashed in the river at John Tait Hut but the water was too shallow to swim in. When we came to the Traverse Falls, however, we could not resist bathing in the big pool formed by the falling water. Tired but refreshed we arrived at Upper Travers Hut in the evening.

Next day, on the 24th, we went up the Travers Saddle. As we had done most of the hard work (in terms of altitude) the day before, we arrived there early and had time to dump our packs and explore the area a bit. We went past a beautiful tarn up big boulders to Rainbow Pass and from there climbed up over loose rocks and boulders to a small peak little more than 2000 meters high, which is the highest we've been in New Zealand so far. We returned the same way back to our packs, had a nice lunch and went down the saddle on the other side. Here, it was way steeper than on the way up which is a pain for the knees. Good we had our walking poles. When we then arrived at West Sabine Hut we were quite tired. To have some sort of Christmas feeling we made hot chocolate and ate most of our cookies.

On Christmas day we had planned a short day. Just a four hour walk to Blue Lake Hut where we left our packs and made a side trip up to a high plateau and to Lake Constance. Unfortunately, it started to rain by then so we did not go further up but just returned to the hut, had more cookies and hot chocolate and generally had a lazy day.

Next morning the rain had stopped but there was heavy fog left in the valleys. As we climbed the way up to Moss Pass you could see the fog flowing around. At some points it was hard to follow the track because falling rocks had crushed the markers and the fog caused limited visibility but with a bit of patience it was okay. We found that we were faster than the times given by DOC so we did not stop at George Lyon Hut but went further down the D'Urville Valley to the nice and cosy Morgan Hut. After a refreshing dip in the river we had even more hot chocolate and some German guy had left an issue of "Der Spiegel" (a bit like the Times Magazine but more pages and somehow more profound) so we could catch up with some news from our home country.

The plan for the next day was to walk to Sabine Hut, but again we were much faster than the signs told and so we ended up climbing the painfully steep forrest track up to Mount Cedric and along the Robert Ridge to Lake Angelus. The hut there, with 26 places, was completely full and so we set up our tent at the opposite end of the lake which was much nicer anyway because if there are more than 10 people in a hut you can bet that at least one of them snores terribly.

We anticipated a short and lazy day so we woke up late, had a lazy breakfast and then went for a swim in the wonderful blue water of Lake Angelus. Although the sun had heated it up quite reasonably the day before, it was a refreshing experience. We then packed our stuff and started our way back. The ridge was not that spectacular from now on but there were plenty of the so-called vegetable sheep, a nice plant that grows on rock and makes it look like... sheep. The track became more and more crowded and touristy because we were coming closer to the carpark. We hurried really fast and on the last bit, which actually was a road, two nice New Zealanders took us with their van down to the lake where we had left our car.

Travers-D'Urville track

Tomorrow we plan to go to Mount Owen in Kahurangi Nationalpark and try to climb it.
We hope you enjoyed the Christmas holidays and we wish everyone a happy new year!

Edwards-Hawdon-Track

From the 10.12.-12.12 we did the Edwards-Howdon-Track. This is a while ago, but up to now we couldn't find a relatively cheap place to use internet...

The weather looked reasonably good so we decided to stay in Arthur's Pass for a while and do the Edwards-Hawdon-Track. Just at the beginning we had to cross two rivers again but they were low enough to allow for an easy crossing. We travelled up the Edwards Valley on a well-maintained track, enjoyed some great waterfalls on the way and arrived at Edwards Hut for lunch. It was early and the day looked fine so we decided to walk on. First, we had to walk over a grassy flat with huge tussok plants which led to Tarahuna Pass which really is just a huge pile of rocks. From there a ridiculously steep "track" leads up to Tarn Col. The track was the dried bed of a small creek filled with snowgrass and loose rock scree. We used the grass and scrub to hold on to so we could pull ourselves up. Unfortunately the weather wasn't that good anymore so we couldn't go for a swim in the little tarn. We set up our tent just below the tarn, had dinner and went to sleep.

Next day it was foggy and pretty cold on the saddle so we quickly cooked some porridge/muesli and tea, packed our stuff and started walking on the way down from Tarn Col. We passed a steep and narrow gorge. In the Otehake River we found some really beautiful spots for swimming but it was just too cold and wet up there. We continued through thick scrub on to Walker Pass from where we had to cross the Twin Fall Stream plenty of times. Actually, we spent more time with our feet underwater than on the riverside but once your feet are wet it doesn't make any difference. It did not take too much time to reach Hawdon Hut which was just built the year before. We had the huge hut all for ourselves so we got the fire going and drank plenty of hot chocolade while munching cookies.

The weather still hadn't cleared on the next day but there was no use in complaining so we just went quickly out to Hawdon Shelter. There we met two nice Kiwis and one of them drove us all the way back to the other end of the track where we had parked the car. We then signed out with DOC and fled from the rain to the east coast where we stayed at a nice campground on the Banks Peninsula.

Next day we visited Akaroa which is nice but not spectacular. From there we drove back to Christchurch where we bought heaps of food because there it's cheaper than in the small villages. We drove further up north and camped at Woodend Beach.

After that we started driving to the Nelson Lakes National Park. As it was on the way we stopped at Hanmer Springs which is a thermal bath where sulphuric water from natural hotsprings is mixed with freshwater so that you get hotpools of different temperatures. We soaked a bit in the pools but there isn't really much to do so we didn't stay that long. We drove on and camped at a DOC campsite somewhere on the way.

Edwards_Hawdon

Arthur's Pass, Part I
At first, we had a bit of bad luck with the weather in Arthur's Pass. The DOC officers told us that we were still in the spring season which meant that a storm would hit the area every three days. Our initial idea was a four-day off-track trip, but the guidebook for this trip was written before the big earthquake in 1994 that changed the face of the entire park so we had to look for something else.
Unfortunately, a big storm had just brought 700 mm of rainfall to the park, sending all rivers into full flood. To wait for better weather and more information, we decided to first do a small day trip up Avalanche Peak. It was nice, but a bit overcrowded. At the top of the peak a pack of seven kea waited for us, tried to steal our lunch, open my boots and pick at our backpacks.

Avalanche Peak

Back at the DOC office we were told that the rivers were still too bad to cross, so they proposed the Casey-Binser trip to us. It was easy, had some “nice” forest, but was neither spectacular nor challenging. We almost did the entire two-day trip in one day...

Von Casey-Binser

Finally we got some sort of good weather forecast. Just two more days of bad weather had to pass and then we'd get three fine days. We decided that instead of doing nothing and waiting we could just as well drive on to Christchurch.


Christchurch
The big chain of high mountains that goes through the entire South Island is
called the “Main Divide” because it divides the island into two entirely different
climates. West of the Divide, there is rainforest, with some parts of the West Coast
getting more annual rainfall than the Amazonas Basin. But all the wet air is blocked by the Divide, so east of it there is a warm and dry climate.

So when we started in Arthur's Pass, we had pouring rain. After the first few kilometers it decreased to a gentle drizzle and once we arrived in Christchurch it was a perfect summer day. We stayed in a backpacker's in Somner, a picturesque suburb at the beach with some mediterranean feeling. Next morning we stood up really early, went for a swim at the beach and then drove into the centre of Christchurch.

We checked out some of the outdoor stores and got some new books to read in huts. Then we explored the Art Centre with its many art shops and went on to the Botanical Gardens. From here, we visited the Art Gallery, had real ice cream and went back to the car to drive back to Arthur's Pass.In Christchurch we realised that Christmas is getting close because of the Christmas decoration everywhere. Christmas while you wander around in shorts and T-Shirt, eat ice cream and go to the beach feels pretty strange.

Christchurch

Arthur's Pass, Part II
Back in Arthur's Pass, our plan was to do the Waimakariri-Harmann route, which turned out to be one of the most spectacular trips we have done so far. It is a four-day tramp over two alpine saddles and through nice river valleys.

On the first day of the trip we got a ride to the northern end of the track. The normal and easier way to do this trip is from south to north, but the big Waimakariri River at the south end was still uncrossable because of the recent rain. From the start of the track it was a short and steep way out of the bush and onto the Kelly Range, a broad and open mountain ridge. We had lunch at a cute little hut and then went on over the range where we got beautiful views of the surrounding valleys. Our map showed here no track at all but still there were enough markers to find the way down into the bush again and on to Dillons Hut.

Waimakariri-Harman 1

The next day led us through the beautiful valley of the Taipo River from Dillons Hut to Julia Hut. We expected an easy day because the route description said it would only take six hours. The last few storms, however, had done quite a lot of damage to the tracks where we had to climb over heaps of fallen trees. To get across the Taipo River we had to use a Cableway where on person would sit in a carriage while the other person winds it across to the other side. When we arrived after nine instead of six hours at Julia hut, we went down to the river to search for the hot springs that are found near the river but sadly the river was so high that the springs were flooded and so instead of warm water we only got the sulphuric smell.

Waimakariri-Harmann 2

The third day was the most versatile and interesting day. First we followed a track further up the valley but once we got to the bush line, the official track ended and we had to find our own way up, crossing Mary Creek when necessary and hopping over big boulders. Eventually, we came to a grassy flat and found a few markers which at least told us that so far we have been on the right track. We also noted that it was easier to follow the markers if you were going the opposite way but this way it was more fun being a bit challenged with the route finding. On one time, the valley narrowed to a very steep gorge and we had to climb up a steep grassy slope to get around it. From here a lot of markers led us all the way up to Harman Pass where we had spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. The way down was even more spectacular because it led through the narrow Taipoiti Gorge with heaps of waterfalls thundering down at the right side of the river and here and there still blocks of snow. Again there were no markers because they wouldn't survive long in that gorge anyway, so we hopped down the valley on what seemed to us the easiest way. Once down we had to cross another fat river and then came to Carrington Hut. This is a massive hut with place for 36 people but we were all alone there.

Waimakariri-Harman 3

The last day was the one we were most worried about. In 1994 a big earthquake destroyed the flood track that leads around the Waimakariri River, leaving only steep bluffs behind. Thus we had to cross the Waimakariri River twice and after all the heavy rain in the last time it was not entirely sure whether the river was low enough again. We had enough food with us to wait for a few more days but since it had not rained for the last three days we set out to try it, because for this day more rain was predicted and the sky was full with threating clouds. Carrington Hut had a radio so we talked to the DOC centre in Arthur's Pass and they didn't say it was impossible to cross the river but that we should be really careful. At first we followed a short track through forest and then just walked along the river, looking for a good place to cross it. Luckily this proved to be not as hard as we had expected. With the usual care we managed to get over it, walked further down the valley and then crossed the Waimakariri again to reach Anti Crow Hut (I've got no idea how they came up with that name). From there it was another hour and a half to get out to the road. We first tried to hitchhike back together, but no one wanted to pick up two dirty trampers with their packs, so Steffi waited with our packs at Klondyke Shelter where she had to defend it against a kea while I hitchhiked back to Arthur's Pass to fetch our car. Apparently hitchhiking is quite common in New Zealand because it didn't took long until a friendly old man offered me the seat his poodle had occupied so far.

Waimakariri-Harman 4

Now we are in a backpacker, outside is pouring rain and we're planning the next trip which might be the Edwards-Hawdon route, taking us again through nice alpine scenery.

Wilkin-Young-Circuit

After two rest days in Wanaka the weather still looked not too good so we decided to walk the first three hours of the Wilkin-Young-Circuit and spend a day at Siberia Hut to wait for better weather. A jet boat carried us over the Makarora River to Kerin Forks (see the map) from where we planned to reach Siberia Hut. We had quite heavy rain and the first few side streams were already quite high.



After we left the forest and reached Siberia Flat we had to cross a badly flooded creek. We finally found a shallower part where the current was not too strong and somehow managed to get across it, but after a while we reached a creek that was absolutely uncrossable. It was waist deep and had a strong current. We tried at different places but never made it even to the middle of the river without the current becoming so strong that one could not lift a foot without risking to be swept away. We decided to sit it out and quickly set up our tent where we got into our warm sleeping bags and cooked dinner. It was just a bit annoying because the hut was just half a kilometer away from us.

The night brought even more rain and heavy wind, but in the morning it was only a small drizzle. Side-streams like the one we had failed to cross the day before usually rise quickly during rain but also fall quickly after the rain is gone. When we checked our stream that morning, it was only ankle-deep so we immediately packed our stuff and hurried it over to Siberia Hut. We hung our clothes up to dry, warmed ourselves at the hut's coal oven and spent the day reading and exploring the area around the hut.

The next day was quite long. From Siberia Hut, we walked for about an hour up the valley. There we left our packs and went up a steep valley to take a look at Crucible Lake which was half-frozen with big chunks of ice floating around. We returned to our packs, had lunch and then went back to the main track which followed Gillespies Stream. Once out of the bush, there are cool views of Mount Awful (such a stupid name!). It was a steep climb up to Gillespies Pass from here, but not as bad as over Cascade Saddle. We had a tiny bit of snow but did not need our crampons. Once at the pass, we went down a very steep track into the Young Valley. Because of the side trip to Crucible Lake it was quite late already so we did not go all the way to Young Hut but rather camped at a nice flat in the Young Basin. We heard some Keas, but luckily they left us alone.

We had perfect weather on the next day and got an early start, but the burning sun made us slow and lazy. The track led us down the valley following the Young River through a nice but not too interesting forest. We were in no hurry and had enough food with us, so rather than going out directly, we spent the night at Ram Flat. Though it looked idyllic, after a while swarms of sandflies attacked us so we hid in the tent until they went to bed and we finally got a chance to cook dinner.

On Friday morning we rapidly packed our stuff and ran away from the sandflies. To get out of the Young Valley, we crossed the Makarora River and went back to our car. From here, we drove to the West Coast all the way up to Okarito to a nice camp site at the beach.

Wilkin-Young-Circuit

Today (Saturday), we payed a short visit to Hokitika and then drove on to Arthur's Pass. Next scheduled trip is to climb up Avalanche Peak which is just a day trip. After this, we plan a bigger trip but DOC told us to wait with that until one of their exploring parties is back with more information about the conditions of the tracks.

French Ridge and Cascade Saddle

Our next trip took us to the beautiful Matukituki Valley in the Mount Aspiring National Park. At the first night, we drove in from Wanaka, walked to Aspiring Hut and camped there. We had planned two trips: French Ridge and Cascade Saddle.

We started with the French Ridge trip which led us through a very steep forrest track where we were climbing up holding on to branches and roots. Above the bush line, the track became more gentle and it was a nice walk to French Ridge Hut. It was early and the weather looked nice, so we dumped our stuff at the hut and continued further up the ridge, which was completely covered in snow from now on. We saw some avalanches going off on the opposite mountain range and generally had some awesome views of the valley and of the majestic Mount Barff (a pity it has such a stupid name). The map showed that it was theoretically possible to reach a nice plateau on 2300 meters, called “The Quarterdeck”, with great views of Mount Aspiring and the Bonar glacier. However, the terrain seemed to be more tricky up there and clouds were closing in, so we turned around at approximately 1800 meters and head back to the hut.

On the next morning heavy rain was falling, so we stayed in the hut until lunch and then reluctantly began the descent back down to Aspiring hut. In the afternoon, the sky cleared and we even went for a swim in a side stream of the Matukitkuki river. We camped again near Aspiring hut.

Von French Ridge

We got up at 4:30 am the next day because there was snow on Cascade Saddle and we wanted it to be hard and crisp. If the snow is soft, it becomes very slippery and especially because it lies on top of the even more slippery snow grass this can be quite dangerous. The beginning of the track was again through the forrest which was less steep than the French Ridge track. After a bit more than two hours, we got out of the bush and got impressive views of Mount Aspiring and the Matukitkuki valley. From here on, the track became relentlessly steep and we had to scramble up rocks on all fours. At least rocks aren't slippery. This went on for a while and finally we reached snow fields we had to traverse. Crampons weren't necessary as we could easily kick steps into the snow. Just a few meters below the top of the saddle we had to use our ice axes to make steps. At the top, we enjoyed the 360° panorama and then went down into a small valley and on to Cascade Saddle. After exploring the area, we decided to camp on the saddle rather than pushing on to Dart Hut. We spent the afternoon lying in the sun reading. When we went to sleep, a pack of keas came to explore our tent. First, they tried to steal one of Clemens' shoes and after we had put everything inside our packs and into the tent, they picked a hole in our tent floor :-(

The next morning we got up early again because the forecast predicted rain for the afternoon. Getting down went quite fast, so we reached Aspiring hut at noon, had lunch there and went out to the car park. The weather still looked fine, so we went swimming in the river and camped close to it.

The next plan is to do the Wilkin Young Circuit but the weather for the next few days looks pretty bad.

Von Cascade Saddle

Gertrude Saddle

After the Steward Island trip, we first spent the night there and explored Ulva Island on the next day. This is an island that is completely free of rats and other rodents, so the natural birds and trees of New Zealand can survive hear. We saw lots of interesting birds and the world's smallest penguin, but they are a bit hard to photograph...

In the afternoon, we took the ferry back to the mainland and drove all the way up through Te Anau and further north on the milford road. We spent the night at a DOC camping ground in Fjordland. On the next day, we did the Gertrude Saddle day trip.

Here are the fotos, enjoy.

Von Gertrude Saddle and Milford Sound

After that, we drove on to Milford Sound, which was a bit disappointing after all the other cool mountain scenery we passed through. Therefore, we returned and went to a backpacker's in Te Anau.